Understanding long lines
Whether your dog is in recall practice, has a high prey drive, needs reassurance, or is over-reactive towards other dogs, knowing how to use a long line can make all the difference!
Choosing the right long line
Types of long lines
- There are various types of long leads, including round fabric, flat, thin, thick, woven, padded, or plastic (biothane).
- Different leads suit different dogs. For example, biothane round leads may be too whippy for fast dogs or too slippery for strong dogs.
- Be aware that heavy long lines can alter a small or light dog’s gait if they are dragging it, causing their body to tilt or twist slightly to the side the lead falls on.
- Lighter leads are great for recall training, especially in the latter stages of proofing.
Lengths of long lines
- Super-fast dogs may do better on a ten-metre line so they hit the end less frequently.
- Slower dogs may do better on a five-metre line.
- Strong or heavy dogs are likely safer on shorter lines (five or three metres) because the longer the lead, the greater the force at the end.
Handling the long line
Preventing knots
- Avoiding the line being knotted at the start of the walk can reduce handler frustration and avoid developing frustration in dogs.
- Coil your longline into a neat circle with the handle threaded through the middle, then clip it to your belt or belt loop to keep it out of the way.
- Long lines stuffed into bags and pockets often end up knotted, making changing leads over problematic.
Handling techniques
- Big loops method: Hold big loops in one hand that unravel as the dog travels and are looped or gathered back up as the dog pauses or slows. Note that with thick, flat long lines or extra-long leads, this often results in tangling. With fast-paced dogs suddenly launching off, a loop can tighten quickly around a hand.
- Dragging method: Letting the lead drag behind you suits extra-long leads, thick flat leads, or really fast, strong dogs. Tie a couple of warning knots in the last 5-10 metres so you know your lead is running out.
Maintaining control
- Do not let the lead pool on the floor. This allows dogs to pick up speed, causing a huge yank when they hit the end of the lead, which can injure both handler and dog.
- You want the lead to be soft (a little loose) but not touching the ground. Slower-paced dogs are less risky to keep extra slack in the lead.
- Keep two hands on the lead as often as possible, especially with fast-paced dogs, over-reactive dogs, dogs with a high prey drive, or exceptionally strong dogs.
- While your dog is sniffing, walk slowly ahead—this enables you to cover more ground when they start to move again and helps you guide your dog into the optimum position for reinforcing behaviours such as checking in.
Stopping and managing your dog
Stopping your dog
- Gradually increase pressure on the lead to stop your dog, allowing it to slide to a stop over a few inches.
- Move your body and arms into the stop to prevent painful and stressful jolts for both handler and dog.
Bracing yourself:
- Ensure you always have your legs braced, especially with fast or strong dogs. If you stand with your legs together, you may be pulled off your feet.
Using treats
- Treats on the floor can help give you time to sort your lead out. Be mindful of other dogs around to avoid squabbles over food.
Managing dog interactions
Dog greetings
- During dog greetings, stand on the opposite side of your dog to the other dog. Hold the lead at an upward angle, keeping it soft to avoid tension and defensive behaviour.
- Ensure the lead is not so loose that dogs get tangled or you lose control if the interaction doesn’t go well.
- Be 1.5-3 metres away from your dog to ensure you have control. Avoid your dog greeting other dogs at the end of a 5 or 10 metre long lead, as you have little control if needed.
Recalling your dog
- If you’ve stopped and can’t get your dog to come back, walk up the lead as demonstrated in the video. Getting closer to your dog may get their attention or you can try putting a treat to their nose to encourage them away.
Facing your dog
- Always make sure you’re facing your dog when using a long line. There’s nothing worse than getting a massive yank in the opposite direction you’re facing!
Video tutorial
For a visual demonstration, check out our video tutorial:
Watch on Facebook or Watch on YouTube
Please note, this is a non-scripted, impromptu video. I refuse to take responsibility for anything that doesn’t make sense!
Note: Often throughout this video, I use one hand like a massive hypocrite. This is partially due to gesturing while I talk. On some occasions, I am stopping my dog with one or two fingers around the lead. Please don’t mirror this! I have been using a long line for years and can read my dog’s behaviour and the environment fluently, knowing when two hands are needed. My dog is only 14 kilos and, as a climber, I have quite strong fingers! If this was a heavier or faster dog, or Kanita was more aroused, I would absolutely be using my whole hand and probably both of them!
