Why I don’t use encouragement with fearful dogs
When a dog or puppy is scared, I do not actively encourage them forward, whether that’s with food, praise, toys, or movement. Doing so can actually increase anxiety by creating motivational conflict. The dog is torn between wanting to avoid the scary thing and wanting the treat or praise. This not only escalates stress but can also decrease the perceived value of what you’re using to encourage.
What I do instead
Observing from a safe distance
I find the point at which the dog or puppy can observe the scary thing calmly and support them to move forward only when they’re ready, under their own agency.
Allowing escape
If something has frightened a dog or puppy to the point where they enter flight mode, I move with them until they feel safe enough to slow down. If they can’t calm down around the trigger, I don’t force them to remain near it. Allowing them the option to move away is crucial.
Dogs: Fearful reactions to other dogs
If a dog or puppy is scared of another dog, I do not encourage them to approach, even if the other dog is behaving perfectly.
I give the dog space and time to assess the situation.
If they look more relaxed and curious at their current distance, I may take one small step forward as an invitation.
If they’re not ready, I stay by their side.
If they indicate a desire to move away, I support this by moving with them.
If another dog is approaching too closely and the scared dog can’t observe safely, I will calmly block and gently guide the other dog away.
I also do not interact with the “safe” dog to show the scared dog that it’s friendly. Instead, I remain with the nervous dog and act as their place of safety.
People: When dogs are fearful of humans
If a dog is scared of me I don’t try to make friends by offering food or crouching down to talk.
I never use food to make friends with a fearful dog, nor do I recommend clients ask strangers to offer treats to their nervous dogs.
I stand at a distance, letting the dog assess me at their own pace.
If the dog sniffs me, I stay quiet and still to allow for safe information gathering.
As they become more comfortable, I might gradually add movement, brief glances, or short words to build familiarity.
Objects: Fear of inanimate things
If a dog is scared of an object, I don’t put food on the object or walk away to let the dog investigate alone.
I stay with the dog, offering calm support.
Over time, the predictability of the object helps the dog build confidence, unless the object is intensely scary and requires additional intervention.
Frequency of exposure matters
Confidence and resilience are built through time, distance, and choice. When dogs are repeatedly exposed to trigger stimuli on walks, tolerance can actually decrease. This can lead to:
- Inconsistent handler responses due to changing environments or time constraints
- Increased stress and decreased learning opportunities for the dog
Be mindful of how often your dog encounters triggers and allow for breaks and variety in your walks.
Being thorough in the process
Everything mentioned above is just part of a broader approach. To effectively support a fearful or anxious dog, I:
- Always recommend a vet check to rule out pain or health issues
- Use a multi-pronged strategy to increase confidence, involving both behaviour modification and supportive environments
When I might deviate from the above
There are exceptions, and occasionally I adapt my approach:
Using social learning
If a dog is clearly motivated to approach but hesitates to be the first, I may act as the “guinea pig” by investigating the object or space first, encouraging the dog through social learning rather than direct reinforcement.
Controlled dog interactions
When a dog is improving but struggling with interactions, I set up planned sessions with calm, predictable helper dogs rather than relying on random, unpredictable encounters.
Using food mindfully
In rare, nuanced situations, I may use food to encourage movement, but never directly on or around the scary thing. My aim is always to minimise internal conflict and avoid “poisoning” the food with fear associations.
Rare use of flooding/extinction
In very rare cases, where all other options are exhausted and the only path forward is through, I may consider extinction or flooding. For instance, if a dog is scared of sudden noises (like gunshots) and the route they want to flee through would cause more stress, we may have to proceed carefully in the direction they fear.
In summary
There are always exceptions to the rule, but my default is never to coerce a dog with food, praise, or toys to push them beyond their comfort zone. I prioritise choice, safety, and gradual exposure, always aiming to build lasting confidence—not just momentary compliance.
Let dogs move forward when they’re ready. Support them from a place of safety, not pressure.
